I was surprised at all the green open space which I had not expected because this fertile region is farm and grazing land during the spring and summer...but slowly, as we drove closer to the edges of the massive Vatnojokull Ice Cap (8% of Iceland's land mass), the views on the inland side of the road to our left changed to massive black cliffs and mountains, with numerous waterfalls flowing down.
Along the roadside, the Skogafoss Waterfall is clearly viewable and an easy stop. It is majestic from the bottom and if you don't mind getting too wet, you can get pretty close. There are steep steps to climb to a lookout viewing the falls from above. We read that if you continue your hike beyond, there are an additional 22 waterfalls to enjoy, but we didn't have the time and it was drizzling, so we moved on. Camping is available literally at the base of this majestic fall, as it was at Seljalandsfoss.
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| hard to tell how tall this waterfall is...look at the people in the background |
We drove towards the small town of Vik to see the Dyrholaey Arches, Reynisfjara black sand beach and to Reynisdrangar basalt columns, all miracles of nature where sub-marine volcanos exploded to form the most unusual lava and rock formations on the beach. We spent a few hours at these stops and then ate lunch at nearby Sudar-Vik. There is a site along this way we did not visit where you can hike 45 minutes r/t to the beach to see a plane that crashed and sits in ruins in the black sand.
The rain had started by the time we reached Fjadargljufur Canyon, an absolute must-stop on your travels. Now may be a great time to mention clothing...we brought our waterproof layer (jacket and stretchy waist pants that pull over regular pants) and of course waterproof shoes (I had Sorel walking boots and my hiking boots), hats and gloves and a day pack with a rain cover. Under our waterproof layer was a puffy jacket and then a few layers of under armour style athletic tops. For pants, I wore either Kuhl hiking pants or Athleta casual athletic pants, both of which seemed to repel light rain. I was never cold and most of the drizzle and mist we would go out in or got caught in wasn't enough to get us too wet. Don't overpack as this is not a trip that requires cute clothes or shoes. We were lucky to have free laundry on day 3 and again on day 9 so we only needed a weeks worth of socks and underwear. We packed long underwear which we didn't use and I only used my collapsible trekking poles once. (and as a side note, I blew my hair dry twice and never wore make-up, so don't bother to bring hair products or make-up either.)
We were able to hike along the east rim of the Canyon, looking down at this glowing turquoise river that meandered through these massive cliffs covered in green moss. I've looked at others' pictures of this Canyon and the river always glows, so it is not technology that changes the look of pictures of this place. There were these narrow outcrops that seemed to project out and hang over the Canyon, which were currently roped off, but you could see the worn paths where people had "walked the plank" out to these narrow overlooks dangling over the Canyon. At the end, a man-made grill platform you could walk on was suspended over one of these outcrops to give the same sensation of being suspended over a massive drop with 2 tall waterfalls slamming down into rocks below. Yes, your feel do tingle at this point. The colors in the Canyon were absolutely spectacular and if it hadn't been raining, I am sure we would have explored more and there may have been other hiking trails down into the Canyon. Definitely stop here.
Along the road as we edged towards the Vatnojokull Ice Cap we saw fields of purple lupine and there were miles and miles of rolling fields of black lava rocks covered in lime green squishy moss that resembled...well, broccoli. A remnant of prior eruptions. Get out and walk around. This moss is very small and has flowers and all sorts of tiny succulents mixed in. And then there were endless black fields of lava sand that resembled a giant delta, with braided rivers of glacial outflow running through it towards the ocean to our right. And then to our left, the glaciers, massive valleys of thick ice, forging gouges in the black mountains surrounding and supporting the ice cap. And over us, these turbulent skies and a cold mist that hung in the air over the mountains. And waterfalls, hundreds of waterfalls.
Our stop for the next two nights was at the entrance to the Skaftafell Nature Reserve and we stayed at this funky, totally out of style, like from the 70's, family run, only game in town operation, Hotel Skaftafell. We had a small room with dated, faded panel walls and two twin beds that we pulled together. Luckily the mattresses, linens and small bathroom had been updated since the 70's, but I felt like I was in an episode of The Brady Bunch. Somehow it was cozy, comfortable and we had a delicious dinner in the hotel's restaurant of creamy pumpkin soup, cured lamb-sushi and fresh Atlantic Char. The next night we ate across the street at the family owned non-descript diner, behind an unmanned gas pump, something you'd never walk into in America. I had a delicious fresh lamb burger covered in a rhubarb jam with caramelized onions and mushrooms and Chad had two giant tender lamb shanks with a cheesy potato gratin. It was a gourmet meal in a dive Guy Fieri.
Veitingasala Restaurant...looks yummy right?
In the morning we headed to the Park and began a 4-5 mile hike to an overlook over the glacier tongue, where we sat perched on rocks suspended over the glacier, looking down at the black sand glacier lagoon and looming black cliffs on the other side. The hiking loop took us also to an amazing waterfall surrounded by tall black basalt columns, Svartifoss, definitely a highlight of our trip. You can visit either site separately and there were other longer and shorter hiking trails in the park. Definitely stay a day there. Additionally, along Hwy 1 between Skaftafell and Hofn, there are many places you can drive to the face of some of the many glacier tongues. Pick up a local glacier map and follow the gravel roads to one of them which are very accessible from the Ring Road. We went down a gravel road to Heinabergsjokull and could see 3 glacier tongues merging in one area. You can also hike a glacier in crampons or take a snow mobile ride on the ice cap and in the right season, visit ice caves. Advance reservations in season may be necessary.
It was still light outside and we could have backtracked about 20 miles to Fjadarfljufur to explore further, or drive 20 miles ahead to see some glacial lagoons, so that is what we did. About 20 minutes east of Skaftafell was the smaller glacier lagoon, Fjalsarlon, and at the next glacier, the larger more famous lagoon, Jokulsarlon, with unmarked Diamond Beach directly across the street. It was a windy, overcast day and the ocean was roaring, but the beach is a must stop destination as the icebergs float from Jokulsaron's lagoon, through a small inlet, out to the ocean and land on the black sand beach. Absolutely one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen. At both lagoons (and you must visit both), you can take boat rides into the lagoon to get closer to the icebergs and to the face of the glacier. We did not do this and in season a reservation may be necessary. Kayaking may also be an option.
That night after a 12 hour day and 4-5 hours of uphill hiking we dragged ourselves to bed.
If you only have a few days to visit Iceland, it is possible at this point to just turn around back towards Reykjavik and eliminate the next 5-6 days on our itinerary and you will feel totally satisfied with your Iceland journey.
