Day 6 began with what we viewed as the start of the most exciting part of our trip...the southwestern coast and the long awaited 111 mile Ring of Kerry drive and trip to Dingle Peninsula and the Slea Head Drive. We had evening reservations in Kenmare (at one end of the Ring of Kerry) and decided to drive first to Killarney located at the opposite end of the Ring of Kerry. Unfortunately Killarney reminded me of Kissimmee (the access to Disneyworld) with its eateries, hotels and tour buses. The town was colorful and cute, but with too many tourists. Choose to stay in Kenmare rather than Killarney is my suggestion.
We quickly drove through Killarney town to Killarney National Park (NP) where we had a great afternoon, despite a continuous light misty rain. So much to do in the NP and so worth a stop for more than an afternoon, including visiting the little cafe where we had yummy hot paninis. We didn’t hire a jaunting car (Irish horse and buggy) which will take you all over the park, nor did we take a boat out on the lake to fish, or rent a bike, or tour the Muckross House or it’s farms. We just wandered around the NP in the time we had and it was so enjoyable. Misty fields and gardens, reed filled fishing ponds and lakes, bike trails, paved and dirt trails and the Torc Waterfall...I felt at times like I was in New Zealand it was so green with moss covered trees and wide open views. Do not miss this NP!.
We then headed towards Kenmare along Moll’s Gap to see the Ladies View overlook and we were stunned by the narrow, twisting roads we had to maneuver, which left me closing my eyes at each hairpin turn, almost breathing in to try to help squeeze our narrow car around sharp turns, past tour buses, racing bmw’s, with overhanging rock walls to my left. It was fun, but scary, and helped me understand why jaunting cars were initially used on these narrow roads. We ended in the charming and colorful town of Kenmare, at a family run countryhome, the Shelburne Lodge, lovingly restored over the past few years by Maura, her husband and sister. It was cozy but elegant, with beautiful floral arrangements made from plants growing outside. We had a large upstairs room with a comfortable king bed and could walk 5 minutes into town and I highly recommend this lodging. In the morning, I remember having amazing poached pears and then local smoked salmon for breakfast. Maura used to own a restaurant so the food was good. We had a lot of high priced dinner choices in Kenmare, but we ended up eating in a restaurant named after a local hero and Arctic explorer Tom Crean, and had a delicious chowder and fresh sole dinner with beer and cider. We took a relaxing walk through the quiet town, visiting a few shops and discovering an ancient stone circle and quaint homes with lawns filled with flowers, birdhouses and chimes.
The entire next day was spent driving the 111 mile Ring of Kerry clockwise, opposite the tour buses. There are many cliff overlooks, glacial valley remnants, coves and beaches, abandoned famine villages and the ancient stone fort Slaigue Fort to view along the way. If you have time, go over the bridge to Valencia Island where you can hike and stop at Skellig Chocolate Factory for free samples. On a clear day, views of Skellig Michael offshore are possible (but not on this rainy day). I was a bit underwhelmed by the Ring of Kerry in all honesty. Maybe it was the rain which clouded our views, but I was expecting so much more. Dingle Peninsula however was not a disappointment at all and was everything I expected Ireland to look like. Stopping first at Inch Beach along the Inch Strand on the south east end, we had spectacular late afternoon views looking back towards the Iveagh Peninsula where the Ring of Kerry is located. Surfers lined the expansive wavy beach, with mountains in the distance, and the waves and tidal flow left glittering streaks of water in the sand. A pretty and peaceful sight where Ryan’s Daughter had been filmed decades ago.
We drove on to Dingle Town and the Greenmount House, situated high on a hill overlooking the Harbour and the adorable town of Dingle. We had a ground floor room for our two night stay, with a seating area, a front porch looking towards the Harbour and easy access to our car...a large room with a king bed and a huge soaking tub plus shower in the bathroom. Greenmount offered coffee, tea and cake in the afternoon and had an honor bar too. They did our laundry for 12 euro a load which was perfect mid trip! Breakfast was fantastic, a big buffet and a made to order entree!
The town of Dingle is colorful and alive, with technicolor buildings and wonderful restaurants and bars filled with music. We had two delicious dinners at cosy Ashes Bar and trendy Chart House and spent some time wandering the streets, visiting bars filled with Irish music and enjoying Murphy’s Ice Cream! A fun destination, but not impressed with the actual harborview.
Loved our full day drive along Slea Head, touring Prehistoric Beehive huts, sunning on rocky outcrops and cliffs overlooking the crashing sea below, hiking up to Dunmore Head and down to the beach below with expansive views of the Blasket Islands and finally exploring a cool old church. Fewer tourists and tour buses than the Ring of Kerry. Just a fantastic day with cool breezes, shining sun and bright blue skies. Mountains and valleys covered with fields of brilliant green, filled with sheep and with rows and rows of stone hedges. Do not miss Dingle Peninsula and choose it over the Ring of Kerry if you have limited time. We even had views out to Skellig Michael the skies were so clear.
Next we’re off to the famous Cliffs of Moher and the Burren...
