I have realized on this trip, that vacations for me are generally divided into two major categories: cultural or natural...and the two really can't be compared. So how do I decide what was my favorite travel destination?
Visiting New Zealand (one of my favorite destinations) or Snowmass/Aspen, Colorado (where my heart is), and Iceland (hopefully a future trip) are mostly about immersing oneself in nature, with little about history and culture unless you visit a museum. We hike, we explore mountains, hot springs and glaciers, beaches and distant seas, and we marvel in the absolute beauty of the unique countryside and its native inhabitants, especially animals. For us, Japan was more about the cultural experience. Aside from seeing the majesty of Mt. Fuji and beauty in zen gardens, we didn't have time to hike, bike or visit Japan's islands and beaches, and we stayed in cities, both big and small, and saw temples and shrines and all things religious, spiritual and historic.
So I can't say that Japan is better than New Zealand because they are so different and therefore can't be compared. I can say that my two trips to Africa were my absolute favorite trips and I think that's because Africa is the perfect blend of culture and nature; same with our Machu Picchu/Galapagos vacation combo which ranks high for the same reason. I can now say New Zealand, hands down, was my favorite natural vacation. And here we go...spoiler alert!...I can also say that Japan, hands down, is now my favorite cultural destination, but more about that below.
It's important to say that other factors definitely affect the joy of any vacation...the food, the inherent travel delays, the people, the weather. This is why China will never top any "best vacation list". It is a great cultural experience to see The Great Wall, the Xian terra cotta warriors, the karst formations near Guilin, rice patties and the Yangtze River, the pandas and the spectacular skyline of Shanghai. However for us, the experience was so affected by the oppressive pollution and lack of any sunshine for 19 days, the bad mystery food, the overcrowded, rushed (bordering on rude) population and the huge travel distances and wasted time between those "wow moments".
Japan was so different from China (which surprised and thrilled me) and now tops my list as my favorite purely cultural experience. Why? Many reasons including...
1. The people were polite, kind and very helpful, despite a huge language barrier, as most speak very little English. They would go out of their way to help, often leading us to our destination. They would stop and offer help, even if they only knew ten words in English, studying our maps to find the Japanese kanji characters to see where we wanted to go. They don't smile broadly like Americans as a form of greeting, but they slowly nod and seem so appreciative to see an Anglo face. Conductors bow when they enter or leave a car of the train. They have a great sense of style too, no matter what style suits them best. No one can pull off an anklet sock like the Japanese!
2. The food was fresh and delicious and we tried so much...sushi, shabu-shabu, Korean barbecue, sukiyaki, yakitori, Wagyu and hida beef, ramen noodle soup, soba noodle soup, udon noodle soup, 10 course Japanese keiseki cuisine, mochie, dango, fish cakes, and so many other local delicacies I just couldn't identify.
3. The trains and subways were efficient and timely, clean and fast! Our world changed once we figured out how to use the Hyperdia app and realized it was a brilliant road map to where we needed to go by rail and exactly when and how. And the trains and stations had just enough English to help us out. The taxi drivers were also professionals and wore suits and ties!
4. The cleanliness...not a garbage can in sight and no one litters, no paper towels are handed out in restaurants or restrooms and there's a cleansing washlet Toto toilet most everywhere, even in the subway stations. Smoking is in designated areas and no cigarette butts are thrown in the streets. A lot of attendants in the train actually wear white gloves.
5. Finally, the outstanding sights...from big city, crazy Tokyo, with its sophisticated people and its Harajuku girls, to Mt. Fuji, which poked its head out just for us the whole time we were there under a full moon, to spiritual Kyoto, with its numerous spectacular shrines and temples, geisha girls and all things vermillion, to Kanazawa, with its colorful market, fresh fish, samarai house restorations, and miraculous Buddhist zen gardens and finally, to quaint Takayama, with its extensive old town, so lovingly preserved and a step back in time, 100's of years ago. We went from big to small, from modern day to Edo times, from fast paced to relaxed, from funky to spiritual in the space of 16 glorious vacation days!
Tuesday, October 25, 2016
TAKAYAMA...going back 100 years
TAKAYAMA...
A step back in time from the moment we walked into our family owned ryokan, Hotel Asunaro.. What a unique city, dating from the Edo period (1603-1868) and not destroyed in WW2 which has been so lovingly preserved and cared for. And so different from the other places we visited on this trip.
The old town goes on for blocks and stretches along a lovely boulder-filled rushing river filled with large koi and ducks and draped with weeping willows and Japanese maple trees which were just beginning to turn color. The old machiya houses located in the core, covered with bamboo sliding doors, slats and shades, now serve as shops, restaurants, sake breweries and miso factories. The historical significance of the buildings reminded me of how I feel in Charleston or Savannah looking at the old plantation style homes. Restored, but genuine and special.
On the streets, one can eat Hida beef served like sushi over rice or grilled on a stick, dango which is a smooth, gummy rice mixture shaped into small balls, brewed in soy sauce with five served on a stick like a lollipop, chewy warm buns filled with sweet bean paste or cooked shredded Hida beef, all sorts of soy and sesame crunchy snacks and unique Japanese desserts which aren't really sweet. The grocery stores are filled with prepackaged unusual pickled vegetables of all kinds, colors and shapes which you can sample. I saw antique and new kimono shops, shops that sell pieces of antique kimono fabric sometimes fashioned into small pouches or purses, and a shoe maker making handmade wooden Japanese sandals worn under kimono. I sampled miso soup, miso soy sauce, sake and a few unidentifiable pickled foods.
Each morning, there are two pop-up street markets selling an assortment of products from spices, to miniature bonsai trees, to fresh fruits and vegetables, yew wood carvings, octopus balls grilled in special metal tins like round mini muffin pans, fresh marshmallows and funky little red dolls with no face which is the region's mascot.
But it's not about the stores and restaurants because you can really enjoy the aged structures despite the tourists and dazzling colors of the food and goods. And as you get away from the core, the pace slows down a bit and the historical machiya buildings continue on as private homes and small artisan shops selling pottery, weaving and handmade paper. Everyone has potted plants outside, even the restored areas are stained in the same black stain colored with soot, and the entire effect is wonderful. Our ryokan had bikes available or you can hire a rickshaw to move you around, but it is totally a walkable city and walk we did for two days. And when you approach the post WW2 areas of town on the other side of the river, it looks like a charming shanty town with homes made of corrugated metal in some places. What would be a slum in the US is a charming Japanese cultural experience! Remember there is no garbage, no graffiti and very little crime, so the evils of a slum don't exist here. It's a simple life where people know their neighbors, use bikes to get around, live and eat clean, don't pollute and express gratitude daily at their shrines and temples.
We enjoyed a sukiyaki dinner of Hida beef and vegetables which we cooked at our table in sweet broth the first night at Maruaki which had a 30 wait due to its popularity, but the second night we ate at our ryokan, enjoying another traditional 10 course meal served in the ddining room with a few other guests. Sukiyaki, sushi, things stewed, grilled and pickled, raw and cooked, just delicious. Breakfast each day was also a multi-course Japanese meal, delicious and different each morning, presented beautifully with hot pots brewing mushrooms, greens and tofu, miso soup and rice, eggs and fresh fish and fruit, plus a salad with soy dressing. A western breakfast was available upon request and dinner was an optional add-on, with advance notice. Just a wonderful eating experience enjoyed in kimono and slippers, after bathing in the ryokan's small onsen. Prepare to splurge at a ryokan. Our bill here was 90,000 yen, just under $900 for 2 nights, 3 wonderful meals, access to the onsen and all the personal treatment we got at a family run in. At this onsen, we had 3 rooms separated by paper screens, including an area with a small fireplace for brewing tea and our bedding was already set up when we arrived. But, if you splurge every once and awhile, it is special and worth it, especially since we were conservative in Kyoto and Kanazawa.
On our last day, we toured a restored merchant's house and folk museum and then while walking back to our ryokan to get our stored luggage, found a beautiful dark stained pagoda with red Japanese maple leaves in front and what a sight. We had hoped to see more change of season on this trip, but the peak season is in November in Japan, not October like in the US, so it was special to come upon the sight in our final moments in Takayama.
We had booked reserved seats for 3 trains back to Narita Airport outside Tokyo. We took a shuttle from the train station to our hotel Nikko Narita which was very comfortable...15 minute wait and 10 minute drive, we enjoyed a surprisingly good final sushi dinner in the hotel and hopped on the morning shuttle back to Narita. Nikko Narita allowed us to use up the last bit of our yen as partial payment of the bill, too. We spent some of our Pasmo card balance in the duty free shops which did not accept credit cards, but did accept yen and US dollars.
And now I'm on the plane, "enjoying" the last hour of my Business class ticket Tokyo to Dallas. Didn't sleep a wink on this flight from 10:40am to 9:00pm Tokyo time although I was very comfortable. Unfortunately, it will be 8am Dallas time and we have a layover and flight to Ft Lauderdale, plus our drive home, so don't know how we will feel in a few hours! Getting home at 5pm Florida time will be 6am Tokyo time and that's a missed night's sleep.
A step back in time from the moment we walked into our family owned ryokan, Hotel Asunaro.. What a unique city, dating from the Edo period (1603-1868) and not destroyed in WW2 which has been so lovingly preserved and cared for. And so different from the other places we visited on this trip.
The old town goes on for blocks and stretches along a lovely boulder-filled rushing river filled with large koi and ducks and draped with weeping willows and Japanese maple trees which were just beginning to turn color. The old machiya houses located in the core, covered with bamboo sliding doors, slats and shades, now serve as shops, restaurants, sake breweries and miso factories. The historical significance of the buildings reminded me of how I feel in Charleston or Savannah looking at the old plantation style homes. Restored, but genuine and special.
On the streets, one can eat Hida beef served like sushi over rice or grilled on a stick, dango which is a smooth, gummy rice mixture shaped into small balls, brewed in soy sauce with five served on a stick like a lollipop, chewy warm buns filled with sweet bean paste or cooked shredded Hida beef, all sorts of soy and sesame crunchy snacks and unique Japanese desserts which aren't really sweet. The grocery stores are filled with prepackaged unusual pickled vegetables of all kinds, colors and shapes which you can sample. I saw antique and new kimono shops, shops that sell pieces of antique kimono fabric sometimes fashioned into small pouches or purses, and a shoe maker making handmade wooden Japanese sandals worn under kimono. I sampled miso soup, miso soy sauce, sake and a few unidentifiable pickled foods.
Each morning, there are two pop-up street markets selling an assortment of products from spices, to miniature bonsai trees, to fresh fruits and vegetables, yew wood carvings, octopus balls grilled in special metal tins like round mini muffin pans, fresh marshmallows and funky little red dolls with no face which is the region's mascot.
But it's not about the stores and restaurants because you can really enjoy the aged structures despite the tourists and dazzling colors of the food and goods. And as you get away from the core, the pace slows down a bit and the historical machiya buildings continue on as private homes and small artisan shops selling pottery, weaving and handmade paper. Everyone has potted plants outside, even the restored areas are stained in the same black stain colored with soot, and the entire effect is wonderful. Our ryokan had bikes available or you can hire a rickshaw to move you around, but it is totally a walkable city and walk we did for two days. And when you approach the post WW2 areas of town on the other side of the river, it looks like a charming shanty town with homes made of corrugated metal in some places. What would be a slum in the US is a charming Japanese cultural experience! Remember there is no garbage, no graffiti and very little crime, so the evils of a slum don't exist here. It's a simple life where people know their neighbors, use bikes to get around, live and eat clean, don't pollute and express gratitude daily at their shrines and temples.
We enjoyed a sukiyaki dinner of Hida beef and vegetables which we cooked at our table in sweet broth the first night at Maruaki which had a 30 wait due to its popularity, but the second night we ate at our ryokan, enjoying another traditional 10 course meal served in the ddining room with a few other guests. Sukiyaki, sushi, things stewed, grilled and pickled, raw and cooked, just delicious. Breakfast each day was also a multi-course Japanese meal, delicious and different each morning, presented beautifully with hot pots brewing mushrooms, greens and tofu, miso soup and rice, eggs and fresh fish and fruit, plus a salad with soy dressing. A western breakfast was available upon request and dinner was an optional add-on, with advance notice. Just a wonderful eating experience enjoyed in kimono and slippers, after bathing in the ryokan's small onsen. Prepare to splurge at a ryokan. Our bill here was 90,000 yen, just under $900 for 2 nights, 3 wonderful meals, access to the onsen and all the personal treatment we got at a family run in. At this onsen, we had 3 rooms separated by paper screens, including an area with a small fireplace for brewing tea and our bedding was already set up when we arrived. But, if you splurge every once and awhile, it is special and worth it, especially since we were conservative in Kyoto and Kanazawa.
On our last day, we toured a restored merchant's house and folk museum and then while walking back to our ryokan to get our stored luggage, found a beautiful dark stained pagoda with red Japanese maple leaves in front and what a sight. We had hoped to see more change of season on this trip, but the peak season is in November in Japan, not October like in the US, so it was special to come upon the sight in our final moments in Takayama.
We had booked reserved seats for 3 trains back to Narita Airport outside Tokyo. We took a shuttle from the train station to our hotel Nikko Narita which was very comfortable...15 minute wait and 10 minute drive, we enjoyed a surprisingly good final sushi dinner in the hotel and hopped on the morning shuttle back to Narita. Nikko Narita allowed us to use up the last bit of our yen as partial payment of the bill, too. We spent some of our Pasmo card balance in the duty free shops which did not accept credit cards, but did accept yen and US dollars.
And now I'm on the plane, "enjoying" the last hour of my Business class ticket Tokyo to Dallas. Didn't sleep a wink on this flight from 10:40am to 9:00pm Tokyo time although I was very comfortable. Unfortunately, it will be 8am Dallas time and we have a layover and flight to Ft Lauderdale, plus our drive home, so don't know how we will feel in a few hours! Getting home at 5pm Florida time will be 6am Tokyo time and that's a missed night's sleep.
KANAZAWA STOPOVER
Kanazawa is a one day stopover. We stayed two nights and enjoyed ourselves, but one night is enough. It is a fairly big city with a circular bus system located on the Sea of Japan, but doesn't have a coastal feel at all. We could not see Russia or the water from our front porch. It was very convenient to stay at the modern, clean Hotel Mystays on Hirooka Street, only a few blocks from the train station, and only $123 a night without meals. We could stop each night at the train station and pick up yogurt and a pastry for breakfast since we had a refrigerator.
Kanazawa has the most beautiful zen garden, Kenroku-en, especially seen late in the day with the sun filtering through the trees and stone lanterns, particularly the classic Japanese photo of the unique two-legged lantern. Spend a few hours there. The Omicho Market is also a wonder and you can wander for a few hours observing some unusual things like crabs that are still moving, baby red octopus on a stick, fish jerky, giant whole squid and every size of shrimp. The vibrant colors, the dazzling movement and constant banter of Japanese haggling was crazy! The fish mongers happily let us take pictures of everything, probably wondering why silly Americans would want to take pictures of food. We stopped and ate sushi at a joint inside where we sat at a bar that wrapped around the room right next to the sushi chef. We ordered from a picture and each piece of thick luscious sushi came out individually on little colored plates, each suggesting the price which was tabulated at the end. No one spoke English and yen only!
The second day we visited the restored samarai houses and gardens which was very interesting, showing how samarai warriors lived hundreds of years ago. We saw the geisha/Chaya entertainment district which is nothing at night and not much during the day after seeing Kyoto. We also went to the ninja museum, Ninja-dera, which has nothing to do with ninjas, but was a house built during the Edo period for defense of the ruling family. Reservations are required (go to the information booth at the train station, where you can also buy a one day pass for the buses which you will need unless you want to do a lot of walking). The $10 tour is in Japanese, with an English guidebook, and the house is filled with hidden stairs, trap doors, hidden rooms, secret passages and an underground tunnel to the castle...very interesting and worth a visit. The neighborhood nearby with shiny black tiled roofs certainly unique to this region was filled with small shrines and was fun to explore on foot, but can be missed if you are short on time. If vermillion is Kyoto's color, black and dark wood stained with soot is typical here. Different and very pretty.
We found finding food in the evenings a challenge, so think about this before you go because we walked a lot before finding restaurants both nights. Although we did find a wonderful udon noodle restaurant for lunch where the chef cooked the homemade noodles, fried the tempura, cracked the eggs and added the toppings right in front of us like a short order cook and that was fun to watch and delicious. Curry udon anyone?
FYI we could not get bus reservations to go to Shirakawago from Kanazawa...both days were fully booked, so think about this if you plan to go to Takayama via Shirakawago. We ended up going there by Shinkansan via Toyama and then by local train. We visited Shirakawago from Takayama so read about our great day there. It was a picturesque train ride as season change was just beginning...be sure to get your reserved tickets for both trains the night before to avoid early morning lines and risk the possibility of reserved seats being sold out. And then 2 1/2 hours later, we arrived in wonderful Takayama!
Kanazawa has the most beautiful zen garden, Kenroku-en, especially seen late in the day with the sun filtering through the trees and stone lanterns, particularly the classic Japanese photo of the unique two-legged lantern. Spend a few hours there. The Omicho Market is also a wonder and you can wander for a few hours observing some unusual things like crabs that are still moving, baby red octopus on a stick, fish jerky, giant whole squid and every size of shrimp. The vibrant colors, the dazzling movement and constant banter of Japanese haggling was crazy! The fish mongers happily let us take pictures of everything, probably wondering why silly Americans would want to take pictures of food. We stopped and ate sushi at a joint inside where we sat at a bar that wrapped around the room right next to the sushi chef. We ordered from a picture and each piece of thick luscious sushi came out individually on little colored plates, each suggesting the price which was tabulated at the end. No one spoke English and yen only!
The second day we visited the restored samarai houses and gardens which was very interesting, showing how samarai warriors lived hundreds of years ago. We saw the geisha/Chaya entertainment district which is nothing at night and not much during the day after seeing Kyoto. We also went to the ninja museum, Ninja-dera, which has nothing to do with ninjas, but was a house built during the Edo period for defense of the ruling family. Reservations are required (go to the information booth at the train station, where you can also buy a one day pass for the buses which you will need unless you want to do a lot of walking). The $10 tour is in Japanese, with an English guidebook, and the house is filled with hidden stairs, trap doors, hidden rooms, secret passages and an underground tunnel to the castle...very interesting and worth a visit. The neighborhood nearby with shiny black tiled roofs certainly unique to this region was filled with small shrines and was fun to explore on foot, but can be missed if you are short on time. If vermillion is Kyoto's color, black and dark wood stained with soot is typical here. Different and very pretty.
We found finding food in the evenings a challenge, so think about this before you go because we walked a lot before finding restaurants both nights. Although we did find a wonderful udon noodle restaurant for lunch where the chef cooked the homemade noodles, fried the tempura, cracked the eggs and added the toppings right in front of us like a short order cook and that was fun to watch and delicious. Curry udon anyone?
FYI we could not get bus reservations to go to Shirakawago from Kanazawa...both days were fully booked, so think about this if you plan to go to Takayama via Shirakawago. We ended up going there by Shinkansan via Toyama and then by local train. We visited Shirakawago from Takayama so read about our great day there. It was a picturesque train ride as season change was just beginning...be sure to get your reserved tickets for both trains the night before to avoid early morning lines and risk the possibility of reserved seats being sold out. And then 2 1/2 hours later, we arrived in wonderful Takayama!
SPIRITUAL KYOTO
KYOTO...
One of the best cities I have ever visited and writing about it just won't do it justice because it is such a visual and emotional extravaganza. Look at Frommer's for a travel guide to Kyoto.
It's hard to describe the feeling visiting endless shrines and temples, one as different as the next, with young girls dressed as geishas for the day, posing in front for selfies and feeling beautiful in that moment. What word can describe the joy of walking narrow Pontocho Alley at sunset as the colorful lanterns glow, beckoning you into 1 of a 1000 miniature restaurants, with hundreds of mingled scents wafting through the alley? And what luck when you catch sight of a mysterious geisha slipping into an unmarked tea house without a sideways glance as she tries to be anonymous. How can you describe the sensual taste of melt-in-your-mouth sushi at Sushi Tetsu while chatting with cool sushi chefs at the bar who don't speak English and serve your sushi on banana leaves? No words for how we enjoyed grilling Wagyu meat with vegetables with childhood friends at Hiro Korean barbecue...or simmering it in broth shabu-shabu style at Nikugoten...cooking food right at our table, family style. How do you describe the fun we had sitting at a small bar with only 10 stools watching a bustling crew chattering in Japanese, making dumplings the size of my fist, grilling yakitori with exotic dipping sauces and ladling noodle soups with crazy ingredients and flavors like spicy black sesame seed udon. (I wish Google Translate could convert the name of this fun restaurant to English...shout out to Mimasuya, too, for an excellent gourmet sushi meal). It's hard to differentiate in words whether shrines, temples and torii gates that are painted bright vermillion were prettier than the ones weathered over time. How many different water pavilions did we see, each with a different fountain spouting cleansing water? How many times did I watch someone bow twice, ring a gong, and clap twice before saying a prayer and bowing deeply? And why is it so mesmerizing to meander up and down narrow curved streets in Gion with charming, almost dilapidated, but yet beautiful, machiya houses hundreds of years old, saved from destruction (although you know the owners wish for larger closets and modern kitchens)?
Just give yourself enough time; we stayed five nights and that was not enough. Prepare for lots of walking, but also prepare for using the free JR train system, and the non-JR buses and subway...use a Pasmo or Suica card which you can buy and upload with cash at any convenient 7-11 or in the train stations if you can find an English speaking machine, or buy a one day transportation pass. And at night with no traffic, the taxis were very reasonable to get home fast. Just have your destination displayed on your cell in Japanese characters. We stayed at the economical, clean, modern Citidines Karsuma-Gojo suites (with a kitchenette) which was conveniently located along the subway, one stop from Kyoto Station and within walking distance of Gion, and only $170/night with no meals. A grocery store and 7-11 were a block away so it's easy to load your Pasmo card or buy provisions for breakfast each morning. The hotel offers a $5/per person breakfast, but we did not enjoy it the first morning.
Don't miss the tranquil bamboo forest, Arashiyama, and nearby Tenryuji Temple ($5) which had beautiful zen gardens, the Golden Pavillon Kinkaku ($5) and the Silver Pavillion Ginkaku ($5) with its serene Buddhist Zen garden, or the endless vermillion torii gates at Fushimi Inari-Taisha. Go early or late to try to avoid the endless Japanese school groups and when the light is glowing through the trees. Visit every temple you can, especially Kizomizu-dera with its bright vermillion Pagoda ($5), and then try to find the naturally-aged, coal black Yasaka Pagoda hidden down a nearby street in the ancient Gion district. We also saw Kodai-ji, Marayama Park, Heian Jingu, Shoren-In shrines. From the Silver Pavillion, walk back towards town via the Philosopher's Walk, stopping at every small temple and shrine along the way if you can and enjoy the small shops along the canal lined with such beautiful trees. Each shrine along the Walk has a unique quality and most are free. Be sure to spend time in the cemeteries, often adjacent to a temple. Notice the moss on the headstones and statuary and the wonderful scent of incense burning everywhere. And if you're wild and crazy, rent a kimono, and a Yukata for him, get your hair and make-up done, and wander to all the wonderful sights pretending you are Japanese too.
You can see I loved Kyoto...
One of the best cities I have ever visited and writing about it just won't do it justice because it is such a visual and emotional extravaganza. Look at Frommer's for a travel guide to Kyoto.
It's hard to describe the feeling visiting endless shrines and temples, one as different as the next, with young girls dressed as geishas for the day, posing in front for selfies and feeling beautiful in that moment. What word can describe the joy of walking narrow Pontocho Alley at sunset as the colorful lanterns glow, beckoning you into 1 of a 1000 miniature restaurants, with hundreds of mingled scents wafting through the alley? And what luck when you catch sight of a mysterious geisha slipping into an unmarked tea house without a sideways glance as she tries to be anonymous. How can you describe the sensual taste of melt-in-your-mouth sushi at Sushi Tetsu while chatting with cool sushi chefs at the bar who don't speak English and serve your sushi on banana leaves? No words for how we enjoyed grilling Wagyu meat with vegetables with childhood friends at Hiro Korean barbecue...or simmering it in broth shabu-shabu style at Nikugoten...cooking food right at our table, family style. How do you describe the fun we had sitting at a small bar with only 10 stools watching a bustling crew chattering in Japanese, making dumplings the size of my fist, grilling yakitori with exotic dipping sauces and ladling noodle soups with crazy ingredients and flavors like spicy black sesame seed udon. (I wish Google Translate could convert the name of this fun restaurant to English...shout out to Mimasuya, too, for an excellent gourmet sushi meal). It's hard to differentiate in words whether shrines, temples and torii gates that are painted bright vermillion were prettier than the ones weathered over time. How many different water pavilions did we see, each with a different fountain spouting cleansing water? How many times did I watch someone bow twice, ring a gong, and clap twice before saying a prayer and bowing deeply? And why is it so mesmerizing to meander up and down narrow curved streets in Gion with charming, almost dilapidated, but yet beautiful, machiya houses hundreds of years old, saved from destruction (although you know the owners wish for larger closets and modern kitchens)?
Just give yourself enough time; we stayed five nights and that was not enough. Prepare for lots of walking, but also prepare for using the free JR train system, and the non-JR buses and subway...use a Pasmo or Suica card which you can buy and upload with cash at any convenient 7-11 or in the train stations if you can find an English speaking machine, or buy a one day transportation pass. And at night with no traffic, the taxis were very reasonable to get home fast. Just have your destination displayed on your cell in Japanese characters. We stayed at the economical, clean, modern Citidines Karsuma-Gojo suites (with a kitchenette) which was conveniently located along the subway, one stop from Kyoto Station and within walking distance of Gion, and only $170/night with no meals. A grocery store and 7-11 were a block away so it's easy to load your Pasmo card or buy provisions for breakfast each morning. The hotel offers a $5/per person breakfast, but we did not enjoy it the first morning.
Don't miss the tranquil bamboo forest, Arashiyama, and nearby Tenryuji Temple ($5) which had beautiful zen gardens, the Golden Pavillon Kinkaku ($5) and the Silver Pavillion Ginkaku ($5) with its serene Buddhist Zen garden, or the endless vermillion torii gates at Fushimi Inari-Taisha. Go early or late to try to avoid the endless Japanese school groups and when the light is glowing through the trees. Visit every temple you can, especially Kizomizu-dera with its bright vermillion Pagoda ($5), and then try to find the naturally-aged, coal black Yasaka Pagoda hidden down a nearby street in the ancient Gion district. We also saw Kodai-ji, Marayama Park, Heian Jingu, Shoren-In shrines. From the Silver Pavillion, walk back towards town via the Philosopher's Walk, stopping at every small temple and shrine along the way if you can and enjoy the small shops along the canal lined with such beautiful trees. Each shrine along the Walk has a unique quality and most are free. Be sure to spend time in the cemeteries, often adjacent to a temple. Notice the moss on the headstones and statuary and the wonderful scent of incense burning everywhere. And if you're wild and crazy, rent a kimono, and a Yukata for him, get your hair and make-up done, and wander to all the wonderful sights pretending you are Japanese too.
You can see I loved Kyoto...
MT. FUJI...A LITTLE BIT COUNTRY, A LITTLE BIT ROCK AND ROLL
Mt. FUJI...a little bit country, a little bit rock and roll...
Our trip to Mt. Fuji started out easy and ended perfectly, but got a little rocky in the middle. We efficiently took the Shinkansan from Tokyo Station to Odawara Station. Most people visiting Mt. Fuji, often for day trips from Tokyo, go first to Odawara and then take a local train and/ or bus(es) to Hakone. From there, using the one or two day "Hakone free pass", one can visit the Mt. Fuji region and that's what I thought we were doing. Luckily before hopping on the Hakone train, we double checked with the information booth who looked at our ryokan location near one of the Five Lakes at the base of Mt. Fuji and gave us a different route, involving 2 local trains, a bus and a 2 1/2 hour route in the opposite direction from Hakone! (This was before we discovered how to use our Hyperdia app). Anyway, all's well that ends well, and despite the "twilight zone" of deserted train stations where absolutely no one spoke English and one girl practically jumped the tracks to try to help us since we looked so lost, we arrived at the Lake Kawaguckiko and our wonderful ryokan, Fujikawaguchiko Onsen Konaso for the most delicious experience.
Was it worth it? Yes. Yes. Yes. And if it was the right time of year, it would be worth it to stay another night and spend time hiking up or around Mt. Fuji! But we were ready for some relaxation after our transcontinental trip, jet lag and 5 grueling days in Tokyo (preceded by 3 days of Hurricane Matthew preparation right before we left), plus it was too late in the season to hike Mt. Fuji so we heard.
Spoiler alert...huge run-on sentence coming up...Aside from having a tatami bamboo mat room, with a porch that had a private volcano-water-fed hot tub, with a direct view of Mt. Fuji, we had our own "geisha butler" who made us tea and fed us a multi-course, over the top, delicious dinner in our room, while we wore kimonos, sitting on the floor at a low table in chairs without legs, following an hour of bathing in the ryokan's volcano-water-fed onsen, also with a direct view of Mt. Fuji. Whew! Did I forget to mention that sometimes people never see Mt. Fuji during an entire visit because of clouds and mist, and except for a few misty clouds at the base, we saw it the whole time we were there, including under a full moon!!! The traditional keiseki dinner consisted of at least 10 courses that included something raw, steamed, boiled, grilled, sweet, pickled, vinegared, meat, vegetables, fish etc. and took a few hours to eat and left us feeling quite full despite small bites of some things. The multi-colored small plates and hot pots were decorated with fresh leaves and flowers and the presentation and taste of everything was fantastic and left us giddy with happiness.
The spa made me giddy with happiness too. Of course, the spas are segregated by gender, you're naked and there could be other guests present, but you enter the baths from a changing area, with only a small washcloth, but not a towel. You go to an open shower area with small stools and buckets under each shower nozzle and many bath products to choose from, where you wash before entering the many hot, bubbling bathtubs. After bathing in the hot baths, you wash off, wash your hair, and attempt to dry off with your washcloth. LOL. The changing room has towels, combs and hair dryers and many lotions and cleansers to sample. Goat's milk lotion and a pomegranate/egg facial peel were my favorite, but they also had Sheishado grooming products as if they were ordinary. We did this twice the first day, including after dinner. When we returned to our room at night, the low table and chairs had been set aside and two padded mats had been set out, with sheets and a huge duvet comforter. Not as comfortable as a real bed, but a unique experience.
The next morning we bathed on our porch watching the sunrise before heading to the breakfast area where we had a delicious 100 course Japanese buffet breakfast. The staff was very helpful and gave us a written instructions for a better travel plan to Kyoto (so we didn't waste time and backtrack) and gave us a ride to the station. The instructions were given in English and in Japanese so we could ask for help which is very important. Luckily, seats were available on the bus (reservations may be required so think about this in season) and we began a 1 1/2 hour ride to the nearest Shinkansan station where we then got reserved seats (free with your JR pass, if available) on the next train to wonderful Kyoto.
Our trip to Mt. Fuji started out easy and ended perfectly, but got a little rocky in the middle. We efficiently took the Shinkansan from Tokyo Station to Odawara Station. Most people visiting Mt. Fuji, often for day trips from Tokyo, go first to Odawara and then take a local train and/ or bus(es) to Hakone. From there, using the one or two day "Hakone free pass", one can visit the Mt. Fuji region and that's what I thought we were doing. Luckily before hopping on the Hakone train, we double checked with the information booth who looked at our ryokan location near one of the Five Lakes at the base of Mt. Fuji and gave us a different route, involving 2 local trains, a bus and a 2 1/2 hour route in the opposite direction from Hakone! (This was before we discovered how to use our Hyperdia app). Anyway, all's well that ends well, and despite the "twilight zone" of deserted train stations where absolutely no one spoke English and one girl practically jumped the tracks to try to help us since we looked so lost, we arrived at the Lake Kawaguckiko and our wonderful ryokan, Fujikawaguchiko Onsen Konaso for the most delicious experience.
Was it worth it? Yes. Yes. Yes. And if it was the right time of year, it would be worth it to stay another night and spend time hiking up or around Mt. Fuji! But we were ready for some relaxation after our transcontinental trip, jet lag and 5 grueling days in Tokyo (preceded by 3 days of Hurricane Matthew preparation right before we left), plus it was too late in the season to hike Mt. Fuji so we heard.
Spoiler alert...huge run-on sentence coming up...Aside from having a tatami bamboo mat room, with a porch that had a private volcano-water-fed hot tub, with a direct view of Mt. Fuji, we had our own "geisha butler" who made us tea and fed us a multi-course, over the top, delicious dinner in our room, while we wore kimonos, sitting on the floor at a low table in chairs without legs, following an hour of bathing in the ryokan's volcano-water-fed onsen, also with a direct view of Mt. Fuji. Whew! Did I forget to mention that sometimes people never see Mt. Fuji during an entire visit because of clouds and mist, and except for a few misty clouds at the base, we saw it the whole time we were there, including under a full moon!!! The traditional keiseki dinner consisted of at least 10 courses that included something raw, steamed, boiled, grilled, sweet, pickled, vinegared, meat, vegetables, fish etc. and took a few hours to eat and left us feeling quite full despite small bites of some things. The multi-colored small plates and hot pots were decorated with fresh leaves and flowers and the presentation and taste of everything was fantastic and left us giddy with happiness.
The spa made me giddy with happiness too. Of course, the spas are segregated by gender, you're naked and there could be other guests present, but you enter the baths from a changing area, with only a small washcloth, but not a towel. You go to an open shower area with small stools and buckets under each shower nozzle and many bath products to choose from, where you wash before entering the many hot, bubbling bathtubs. After bathing in the hot baths, you wash off, wash your hair, and attempt to dry off with your washcloth. LOL. The changing room has towels, combs and hair dryers and many lotions and cleansers to sample. Goat's milk lotion and a pomegranate/egg facial peel were my favorite, but they also had Sheishado grooming products as if they were ordinary. We did this twice the first day, including after dinner. When we returned to our room at night, the low table and chairs had been set aside and two padded mats had been set out, with sheets and a huge duvet comforter. Not as comfortable as a real bed, but a unique experience.
The next morning we bathed on our porch watching the sunrise before heading to the breakfast area where we had a delicious 100 course Japanese buffet breakfast. The staff was very helpful and gave us a written instructions for a better travel plan to Kyoto (so we didn't waste time and backtrack) and gave us a ride to the station. The instructions were given in English and in Japanese so we could ask for help which is very important. Luckily, seats were available on the bus (reservations may be required so think about this in season) and we began a 1 1/2 hour ride to the nearest Shinkansan station where we then got reserved seats (free with your JR pass, if available) on the next train to wonderful Kyoto.
THE SHINKANSAN...and other train matters
Amazing bullet trains zipping through the country at up to 200 mph! With the JR pass, we can ride the Shinkansan and all JR transportation for free and even reserve free seats in special cars. It's possible to reserve seats right before you ride, but sometimes there are lines or availability issues, so we often stop at the train station ticket counter the night before to get printed seat assignments. Save the ticket with the seat reservation, as an attendant may ask to see and punch it. Look for the JR prominently displayed on signs and trains for JR transportation. If you don't reserve a seat, you can sit (or possibly be stuck standing) in non-reserved cars.
The Shinkansan trains are nicer and roomier and definitely cleaner than airplanes and no security check-in. Ample leg room to stretch out or store you luggage in front of you or you can use handy luggage racks. And the bathrooms are clean with Toto washlet toilets. When the Shinkansan train pulls into the station, janitors are standing at each door, nodding to departing travelers....they rush in and totally clean the cars, moving seats to clean and washing the windows. It is wonderful.
Before you leave for Japan, definitely get the (free for a month, then $2.99) Hyperdia app. Remember you need wifi for the app so also rent a pocket wifi. You get complete schedules for any trip you need, including train numbers and track numbers, by typing your start and finish destinations by hour. Everything is timed perfectly. Also, while little English is spoken, it is enough for the attendants to help you get reserved tickets and to direct you to appropriate tracks. Everyone is very polite and they all wear suits and ties and often white gloves. Attendants bow when they enter or leave a car. When you go through the station with your JR pass, you must show it to the gate attendant coming and going and of course, when you reserve seats. If you take a non-JR train, you can buy individual tickets which you insert in the turn style coming and going. With an IC card like Pasmo, you scan it coming and going. Fares on local trains and buses are approximately $2.30 for most destinations, although in the big cities you are charged by distance. Many towns also have day passes for the non-JR transportation, available at stations and 7-11 stores.
The Shinkansan trains are nicer and roomier and definitely cleaner than airplanes and no security check-in. Ample leg room to stretch out or store you luggage in front of you or you can use handy luggage racks. And the bathrooms are clean with Toto washlet toilets. When the Shinkansan train pulls into the station, janitors are standing at each door, nodding to departing travelers....they rush in and totally clean the cars, moving seats to clean and washing the windows. It is wonderful.
Before you leave for Japan, definitely get the (free for a month, then $2.99) Hyperdia app. Remember you need wifi for the app so also rent a pocket wifi. You get complete schedules for any trip you need, including train numbers and track numbers, by typing your start and finish destinations by hour. Everything is timed perfectly. Also, while little English is spoken, it is enough for the attendants to help you get reserved tickets and to direct you to appropriate tracks. Everyone is very polite and they all wear suits and ties and often white gloves. Attendants bow when they enter or leave a car. When you go through the station with your JR pass, you must show it to the gate attendant coming and going and of course, when you reserve seats. If you take a non-JR train, you can buy individual tickets which you insert in the turn style coming and going. With an IC card like Pasmo, you scan it coming and going. Fares on local trains and buses are approximately $2.30 for most destinations, although in the big cities you are charged by distance. Many towns also have day passes for the non-JR transportation, available at stations and 7-11 stores.
Saturday, October 15, 2016
TOKYO DAYZ
Arriving in Tokyo Narita airport at 3pm Tokyo time was 2am Florida time, but despite being exhausted, we were able to efficiently get our suitcases and go through customs and immigration before heading to the JR ticket office to cash in our 14 day JR pass vouchers (including starting it the next day) and also buying a one-way ticket from Narita to Tokyo Station. Wait time was about 1/2 hour for the train and you stand on the platform which corresponds to your car and seat assignment. The trains are very punctual. FYI...not all trains accept the JR pass, so look for the JR sign and show your JR pass coming and leaving to the agent. For the high speed bullet trains, Shinkansan, you will want to go to the JR ticket office to get actual reserved seat assignments. This doesn't cost more, and I hear the non-reserved cars are very crowded. The trip into Tokyo was about an hour and the walk to the Courtyard Marriott Tokyo Station was 2 blocks. We found this location very convenient to all things we wanted to see and assessable to the green JR Yamanote line which circles the city. FYI...Order the portable Wifi which was delivered to the hotel. Also get a battery charger as it drains the wifi and your cell and you'll need to recharge. Google Maps is very helpful to get around.
DAY ONE...The first night we slept poorly with the time difference, so we were up quite early. If you want to see the tuna auction at Tsukiji Fish Market before it moves in November, 2016, it was sold out by 3am, so get there early as only 250 tickets are available for the auctions at 5:30 or 6. We took a taxi to the market around 5 and watched the merchants getting morning deliveries and setting up shop. The market officially opens at 10 if you want to visit all the shops, but I hear if you arrive at 8am, you will also see them cutting the fish after the auction. We were lucky and did see a shopkeeper carving a tuna with large swords! It is interesting to see the market in operation, and we had a sushi breakfast before hopping on the Ginza line and heading to Asakusabashi to see wonderful shrines and a glorious park and markets. Lots to do and see here and it is traditional Japan! The free shrines were open early, but the stores start opening at 9:30. There was a certain pleasure in arriving early before the tourists and seeing the streets before opening as the metal gates covering the doors openings are all hand painted within unique Japanese street scenes. Make an offering at the shrine or shake the container and release a chopstick with a Japanese letters which you match with a corresponding drawer to get your fortune. If it is a bad fortune (mine was), tie the fortune on one of the racks you will see with little origami like papers tied to it for better luck. You can also buy a wooden plaque and write a message and tie it to another rack. You will see that each Shrine has a different picture on one side of the wooden plaques depending on what that shrine is devoted to. We especially enjoyed wandering in and out of the back streets in this area. Hopped on the subway to Ueno park which is filled with activity...we actually returned later in the week, but today we used it to access the Yanaka Cemetary nearby which was very interesting with all these notched sticks resembling skis that contain messages or blessings to the deceased. We also visited the markets under the trains near Ueno Station. Jet lag forced us home at this point for a good nights rest.
DAY TWO...spent the first part of the day trying to visit the grounds of the Imperial Palace....we missed the 9:30 tour (get in line by 8:30 as there are limited tickets) and unfortunately, the day we went, the east gardens were not assessable. Afterwards, we enjoyed wandering up the streets of the neighborhoods, Shibuya and around the Shibuya Crossing and station, and Harajuku and the beautiful Meiji Shrine, set in a forest in the city. We should have also gone to Shinjuki while we were nearby, but were tired and headed home and figured it was more for night life. We visited the main branch of one of the largest department stores Mitsukoshi, and spent an hour in the food court.
DAY THREE...headed back to Ueno Park and visited the main building of the National Museum with wood block prints, Samarai uniforms and swords, lacquerware and old kimono. A very nice overview. Then headed back into the park to see the beautiful Toshogu Shrine and lanterns and pagoda. There are Tori gates there near other shrines, the head of a giant Buddha, a zoo, bands playing, lots to do there. We walked to Akihabara to see the hightech area, stopping for lunch at a soba noodle restaurant and then headed to the Ginza district for exclusive 5th Ave like shopping.
DAY ONE...The first night we slept poorly with the time difference, so we were up quite early. If you want to see the tuna auction at Tsukiji Fish Market before it moves in November, 2016, it was sold out by 3am, so get there early as only 250 tickets are available for the auctions at 5:30 or 6. We took a taxi to the market around 5 and watched the merchants getting morning deliveries and setting up shop. The market officially opens at 10 if you want to visit all the shops, but I hear if you arrive at 8am, you will also see them cutting the fish after the auction. We were lucky and did see a shopkeeper carving a tuna with large swords! It is interesting to see the market in operation, and we had a sushi breakfast before hopping on the Ginza line and heading to Asakusabashi to see wonderful shrines and a glorious park and markets. Lots to do and see here and it is traditional Japan! The free shrines were open early, but the stores start opening at 9:30. There was a certain pleasure in arriving early before the tourists and seeing the streets before opening as the metal gates covering the doors openings are all hand painted within unique Japanese street scenes. Make an offering at the shrine or shake the container and release a chopstick with a Japanese letters which you match with a corresponding drawer to get your fortune. If it is a bad fortune (mine was), tie the fortune on one of the racks you will see with little origami like papers tied to it for better luck. You can also buy a wooden plaque and write a message and tie it to another rack. You will see that each Shrine has a different picture on one side of the wooden plaques depending on what that shrine is devoted to. We especially enjoyed wandering in and out of the back streets in this area. Hopped on the subway to Ueno park which is filled with activity...we actually returned later in the week, but today we used it to access the Yanaka Cemetary nearby which was very interesting with all these notched sticks resembling skis that contain messages or blessings to the deceased. We also visited the markets under the trains near Ueno Station. Jet lag forced us home at this point for a good nights rest.
DAY TWO...spent the first part of the day trying to visit the grounds of the Imperial Palace....we missed the 9:30 tour (get in line by 8:30 as there are limited tickets) and unfortunately, the day we went, the east gardens were not assessable. Afterwards, we enjoyed wandering up the streets of the neighborhoods, Shibuya and around the Shibuya Crossing and station, and Harajuku and the beautiful Meiji Shrine, set in a forest in the city. We should have also gone to Shinjuki while we were nearby, but were tired and headed home and figured it was more for night life. We visited the main branch of one of the largest department stores Mitsukoshi, and spent an hour in the food court.
DAY THREE...headed back to Ueno Park and visited the main building of the National Museum with wood block prints, Samarai uniforms and swords, lacquerware and old kimono. A very nice overview. Then headed back into the park to see the beautiful Toshogu Shrine and lanterns and pagoda. There are Tori gates there near other shrines, the head of a giant Buddha, a zoo, bands playing, lots to do there. We walked to Akihabara to see the hightech area, stopping for lunch at a soba noodle restaurant and then headed to the Ginza district for exclusive 5th Ave like shopping.
Thursday, October 13, 2016
JAPAN...SOME EARLY IMPRESSIONS
We've just enjoyed 3 very busy days in Tokyo and here's what I've learned so far...
Tokyo feels like New York, without the diversity, traffic, and mobs of tourists. Sure there are traditional and historic areas, but the very sprawling city itself with its tall buildings, taxis and subways, bright lights and busy atmosphere, where everyone is moving fast, seems like NYC. But cleaner! There are no garbage cans on the street, or piles of garbage bags lining the curbs ready for pick-up. No paper napkins on the tables or paper towels in the bathrooms, and everyone takes their litter on the street. Areas outside are designated for smoking, so people don't walk around smoking or dropping cigarette butts. Unlike China, there is no pollution and it smells good her, but it's been overcast because season is changing; weather about 70 in mid-October. I've never been to a foreign country with so many public toilets that are clean and with plenty of toilet paper and those wonderful Toto toilets that wash you off ( and the occasional hole in the floor Japanese toilet). People walk fast, but not to the right (like in the US) or to the left (like the UK and what you'd expect since they drive on the left), so it's a challenge to walk on the streets and especially in the train station which is an explosion of people. People don't necessarily smile as a greeting, but do nod their heads. Sometimes people are overly appreciative and apologetic. The trains are extremely punctual and the color coded signage and few English words make it intuitive to get around. We are able to use our JR pass for many of the trains, but can use our cash loaded Pasmo cards for others. You just swipe going through the entrance and exit gates. It is a cash society, with no tipping. Few speak English and our pronunciation of the words is different, but people go out of their way to help and point the direction, so we have managed to get around. The underground has shopping malls and eateries many levels deep and I suspect you can walk for miles underground. Everyone dresses well. Men wear dark suits and ties, even the taxi drivers with their lace covered seat covers. Some areas are themed or trendy, so you will see older women dressed like school girls or video characters, but the ladies dresses very classic and lots of suits, skirts and dress pants.....hardly any blue jeans. Women wear tights and anklets with heels and the colors are muted; beige, blues, whites and black. Few patterns and colors, no tee shirts or things with logos and no one looks sloppy. Everyone looks simple, stylish without effort, and of course, since no one is overweight, it all looks good. Lots of scarves and everyone seems to have a sense of style. The children are very well behaved and the school groups dress alike and the small children all wear the same cap from a particular school. The food is different here, particularly the sweets, and the large department stores have massive food courts on the lower levels like Harrods in London. Sushi was expensive in the Ginza district, but seems reasonablely priced everywhere else, but so far, not as good as what we've eaten in the US. We've eaten ramen noodle soup and soba noodle soup, as well. Well off to our ryokan in the Mt. Fuji area. Will post later about our days in Tokyo.
Tokyo feels like New York, without the diversity, traffic, and mobs of tourists. Sure there are traditional and historic areas, but the very sprawling city itself with its tall buildings, taxis and subways, bright lights and busy atmosphere, where everyone is moving fast, seems like NYC. But cleaner! There are no garbage cans on the street, or piles of garbage bags lining the curbs ready for pick-up. No paper napkins on the tables or paper towels in the bathrooms, and everyone takes their litter on the street. Areas outside are designated for smoking, so people don't walk around smoking or dropping cigarette butts. Unlike China, there is no pollution and it smells good her, but it's been overcast because season is changing; weather about 70 in mid-October. I've never been to a foreign country with so many public toilets that are clean and with plenty of toilet paper and those wonderful Toto toilets that wash you off ( and the occasional hole in the floor Japanese toilet). People walk fast, but not to the right (like in the US) or to the left (like the UK and what you'd expect since they drive on the left), so it's a challenge to walk on the streets and especially in the train station which is an explosion of people. People don't necessarily smile as a greeting, but do nod their heads. Sometimes people are overly appreciative and apologetic. The trains are extremely punctual and the color coded signage and few English words make it intuitive to get around. We are able to use our JR pass for many of the trains, but can use our cash loaded Pasmo cards for others. You just swipe going through the entrance and exit gates. It is a cash society, with no tipping. Few speak English and our pronunciation of the words is different, but people go out of their way to help and point the direction, so we have managed to get around. The underground has shopping malls and eateries many levels deep and I suspect you can walk for miles underground. Everyone dresses well. Men wear dark suits and ties, even the taxi drivers with their lace covered seat covers. Some areas are themed or trendy, so you will see older women dressed like school girls or video characters, but the ladies dresses very classic and lots of suits, skirts and dress pants.....hardly any blue jeans. Women wear tights and anklets with heels and the colors are muted; beige, blues, whites and black. Few patterns and colors, no tee shirts or things with logos and no one looks sloppy. Everyone looks simple, stylish without effort, and of course, since no one is overweight, it all looks good. Lots of scarves and everyone seems to have a sense of style. The children are very well behaved and the school groups dress alike and the small children all wear the same cap from a particular school. The food is different here, particularly the sweets, and the large department stores have massive food courts on the lower levels like Harrods in London. Sushi was expensive in the Ginza district, but seems reasonablely priced everywhere else, but so far, not as good as what we've eaten in the US. We've eaten ramen noodle soup and soba noodle soup, as well. Well off to our ryokan in the Mt. Fuji area. Will post later about our days in Tokyo.
Tuesday, October 11, 2016
Japan...how did we get here?
We knew absolutely nothing about Japan, or where to go, or what to see and since no one we knew really knew anything either, we started planning our trip by reading travel blogs we found on line and looking at Pinterest and reading Trip Advisor for hotel recommendations. I must admit, planning a trip for two with no guide, to such a remote place, where few speak our language and we couldn't comprehend theirs, was daunting and I was nervous until we got here and so far everything has seemed to work out.
Those of you who know me, know I always fly coach. I've traveled a lot, but I have sat cramped beside a sumo wrestler on a trip home from Hong Kong and next to basketball player on my recent flight home from Africa; I am not spoiled! But upon hearing that American Aadvantage was changing its award program and reduce the value of my miles, I cashed in 250,000 miles accumulated over a decade, and bought two first class tickets. And it was a treat...airport lounge access, the private capsule with "100 different seating/laying positions", the 3 gourmet meals and free alcohol, the full size TV with Bose earphones, and the little Cole Haan goodie bag with travel comforts! Too bad it was a daytime flight and I didn't sleep for one minute!
Before we left, there were a few things I did to make the trip better...
1. I used Booking.com to reserve all the accomodations and I could modify the dates and cancel, without any penalty, only days before reservation time; this made it very easy to tweek my schedule and I didn't worry about losing a deposit while dealing with a foreign host.
2. Since Japan is a cash based society, especially in the small towns, I ordered my Yen online directly from my bank, without any service fee....the Yen were delivered to the bank and I picked them up there. You will need a lot of Yen I hear.
3. Since we would be traveling around Japan on the high speed train, the Sinkansen, before I left, I ordered the 14 day Japan Rail (JR) pass. I used Japan Experience, but there are many agents online and you can buy 7-day, 21-day, etc passes. The vouchers were delivered by Courier a few days later. (When we arrived at Narita Airport, we exchanged the vouchers and activated the passes for the next day. It took a few minutes and it was easy to find the JR office. We also bought one way JR tickets from Narita Airport to Tokyo Station near our hotel (since our JR Pass started the next day) and that was also easy and efficient.). Many local trains also use the JR pass, too.
4. Pasmo cards are little credit cards you use for non-JR subways and in vending machines and in taxis if you don't want to use cash. You can buy them and download them with cash at machines in the train stations and pass them over a scanner to use the subways, both coming and going. (If it is a JR train, you show your JR pass to the attendant, both coming and going.). You can buy these in advance from Japan Experience and they are delivered with your JR vouchers.
5. I ordered a portable wifi from Japan Experience when I ordered my JR pass and it was delivered to the hotel. It was less than $100 for the 2 weeks I need it and it works. It allows us to use Google Maps to get around. I suggest also buying a portable charger as the portable wifi and your phone do lose battery power quickly. It's about the size of a cell phone and allows a few devices to connect to it.
6. Download Hyperdia for a free trial month immediately before you leave so you have train schedules. Also Google translate which allows you to speak or take a picture of words and it will translate into the appropriate language.
7. Print out or scan the Japanese name of your hotel destinations so you can hand the Japanese word to the taxi driver as Anglo words are meaningless. Google translate can help with this.
8. Make sure you use a credit card that doesn't have a foreign transaction fee to pay for any foreign transaction, including when you pay for your JR pass from Japan Experience (which might be based overseas).
And so we're here now, finally....I'll keep you posted on how it all works out.
Those of you who know me, know I always fly coach. I've traveled a lot, but I have sat cramped beside a sumo wrestler on a trip home from Hong Kong and next to basketball player on my recent flight home from Africa; I am not spoiled! But upon hearing that American Aadvantage was changing its award program and reduce the value of my miles, I cashed in 250,000 miles accumulated over a decade, and bought two first class tickets. And it was a treat...airport lounge access, the private capsule with "100 different seating/laying positions", the 3 gourmet meals and free alcohol, the full size TV with Bose earphones, and the little Cole Haan goodie bag with travel comforts! Too bad it was a daytime flight and I didn't sleep for one minute!
Before we left, there were a few things I did to make the trip better...
1. I used Booking.com to reserve all the accomodations and I could modify the dates and cancel, without any penalty, only days before reservation time; this made it very easy to tweek my schedule and I didn't worry about losing a deposit while dealing with a foreign host.
2. Since Japan is a cash based society, especially in the small towns, I ordered my Yen online directly from my bank, without any service fee....the Yen were delivered to the bank and I picked them up there. You will need a lot of Yen I hear.
3. Since we would be traveling around Japan on the high speed train, the Sinkansen, before I left, I ordered the 14 day Japan Rail (JR) pass. I used Japan Experience, but there are many agents online and you can buy 7-day, 21-day, etc passes. The vouchers were delivered by Courier a few days later. (When we arrived at Narita Airport, we exchanged the vouchers and activated the passes for the next day. It took a few minutes and it was easy to find the JR office. We also bought one way JR tickets from Narita Airport to Tokyo Station near our hotel (since our JR Pass started the next day) and that was also easy and efficient.). Many local trains also use the JR pass, too.
4. Pasmo cards are little credit cards you use for non-JR subways and in vending machines and in taxis if you don't want to use cash. You can buy them and download them with cash at machines in the train stations and pass them over a scanner to use the subways, both coming and going. (If it is a JR train, you show your JR pass to the attendant, both coming and going.). You can buy these in advance from Japan Experience and they are delivered with your JR vouchers.
5. I ordered a portable wifi from Japan Experience when I ordered my JR pass and it was delivered to the hotel. It was less than $100 for the 2 weeks I need it and it works. It allows us to use Google Maps to get around. I suggest also buying a portable charger as the portable wifi and your phone do lose battery power quickly. It's about the size of a cell phone and allows a few devices to connect to it.
6. Download Hyperdia for a free trial month immediately before you leave so you have train schedules. Also Google translate which allows you to speak or take a picture of words and it will translate into the appropriate language.
7. Print out or scan the Japanese name of your hotel destinations so you can hand the Japanese word to the taxi driver as Anglo words are meaningless. Google translate can help with this.
8. Make sure you use a credit card that doesn't have a foreign transaction fee to pay for any foreign transaction, including when you pay for your JR pass from Japan Experience (which might be based overseas).
And so we're here now, finally....I'll keep you posted on how it all works out.
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